Unveiling Georgia on a Journey Through the Cradle of Wine

Did you know that Georgia is covered with mountains for over 85% of all its land? That it has three major river basins named Alazani, Iori and Rioni and over 100 smaller tributaries. And that it has so many different microclimates, you can find everything from subtropical climates to rainforests to arid deserts to Alpine glaciers. In general, you can place the climates like this: 

Georgia has ten named winegrowing regions all PDO’s, and all being quite different on their individual terroirs. Below you’ll find a regional map of Georgia and its associated grapes per growing region. To give some form or orientation, Georgia borders Russia and its Caucasus Mountains to the North. The ten growing regions of Georgia are: 

1. Abkhazia
2. Samegrelo
3. Guria
4. Adjara
5. Imereti
6. Meskheti
7. Kartli
8. Kakheti
9. Racha
10. Lechkhumi

Let me take you on a tour through three of Georgia’s major wine growing regions, the Kakheti, Imereti and Kartli. If you want to know more about Georgia’s general terroir, read this article. 

Kakheti: Georgia’s Cradle of Wine

Our journey begins in Kakheti, the undisputed cradle of wine. This region, in the eastern part of Georgia, is often referred to as the countries "wine capital", and for good reason. Due to its 8,000-year-old winemaking heritage, making it one of the oldest wine regions in the world. Kakheti's landscape is a patchwork of vine-covered hills, small villages, and historic monasteries. Here, vineyards are mostly planted on the rolling hills, alongside the Alazani river and on valley floors and even grow at altitudes up to 1,000 meters above sea level. 

We already discussed the climate zones of Georgia, and the Kakheti region has mostly a continental climate, with a high diurnal temperature range during its growing season, and the occasional Alpine influences. During springtime flash floods can occur quite regularly. 

As for grape varieties, Kakheti’s star is undoubtedly the red Saperavi grape, this variety produces wines of deep colour, show a rich complexity of dark fruit with hints of spices and earthy flavours and from this region they are known to be full bodied, it is the most grown red grape variety in all of Georgia. Kakheti offers a diverse range of varieties, from the white Rkatsiteli to the aromatic Kisi. We will talk about the Georgian grape varieties extensively in From Soil to Sip. 

What sets Kakheti apart is its reverence for traditional winemaking methods. Here, the ancient art of fermenting and aging wine in these large clay vessels called qvevri, is still very much alive. Winemakers here are known for their expertise in this traditional winemaking method. The qvevri, is buried in the earth, creates a unique environment where the wines can evolve harmoniously, absorbing the essence of the earth.

To meet international wine styles, many Kakhetian winemakers have modernised their techniques while preserving the essence of tradition. They have precise grape selection, temperature-controlled fermentation, use of stainless-steel tanks, and aging in oak barrels have gained ground in the region. This duality of tradition and innovation has allowed Kakhetian winemakers to produce wines that appeal to both the traditionalists and the modern wine enthusiasts.

Kakheti’s Appellations

This wine growing region is home to 20 PDO’s, in all these PDO’s, different grape varieties are permitted, there are rules on winemaking practices, some are even based on specific meso climates known to the region. Also, grape growing practices and wine styles are all considered. Kakheti’s key subzones are Inner Kakheti (Alazani Basin), Outer Kakheti (Iori Basin), Kiziki (Southeast). 

The four most important PDO’s are: 

• Tsinandali - only for dry white wines produced from Rkatsiteli and/or Mtsvane. 
• Kindzmarauli - wines made exclusively from Saperavi, ark red, semi-sweet, fruity wines. The important part of the PDO has its loose black soil and grows close to the Alazani river. 
• Mukuzani - wines made exclusively from Saperavi and located near the Alazani river.
• Kekheti - Large PDO which only permits the white varieties Rkatsiteli and Mtsvane.

• 75% of land is vineyard land.
• Most vineyard land is found near the fertile river basins.
• Has a continental / transitional climate.
• Generally, has alluvial and loamy soils but is known to have pockets of limestone shale and slate outcroppings. 

Kartli: A Rugged Region on the Rise

Now we are heading westward, and arrive in Kartli, a region that has been quietly gaining recognition for its formidable force in Georgian winemaking, and yet it only accounts for less than 10% of its total vineyard area. Kartli's landscapes are as diverse as its wines, a region which is surrounded by mountainous terrain on all four of its corners. With vineyards nestled in river valleys, rolling plains, and its rugged terrain on the foothills of the mountains. 

Its terroir is characterised by its limestone-rich soils around Kvemo and leaning more towards volcanic soils in Shida. Kartli has favourable climatical conditions, generally, it has a dry, continental climate, and so it is increasingly recognised as ideal for grape cultivation. Winemakers are meticulously tending to their vineyards, practicing sustainable viticulture to ensure the grapes reach their full potential. It's a place where ancient vineyards coexist with modern wineries, where tradition meets innovation.

Kartli's flagship grape is the Chinuri, a white variety known for its finesse and elegance. This grape, along with others like Goruli Mtsvane, thrives in Kartli's diverse microclimates. The red wines are mainly made from Saparavi. Winemakers here have embraced the challenge of producing wines that are both delicate and expressive which meet international standards while expressing the region’s unique character. The region produces a diverse range of wine styles including white, red, rosé, and amber wines. But it’s their sparkling wines they are most famous for.

Kartli’s Appellations

The region has several key subzones like, Kvemo (lower Kartli), Mtscheta-Mtianeti, Shida (inner Kartli). Its PDO’s are:

• Bolnisi (Kvemo)
• Atenuri (Shida)

Imereti: Georgia’s Hidden Treasures of the West

We travel further to the west all the way to Imereti, a region of lush greenery, ancient forests, and pristine rivers. A region in the middle of Georgia which accounts for 15% of all Georgia’s growing area. Overall, it is too mountainous to grow grapes, the altitudes are generally too high, but the valleys and lower plains that is where you’ll find Imereti’s vineyards. All of whom are heavily influenced by the Black Sea. 

Imereti's winemaking history stretches back for centuries, and it's a region that's often associated with some of Georgia's most beloved wines and yet it remains somewhat of a hidden gem on the international wine scene. 

The local hero of this region is the white Tsolikauri grape, a variety celebrated for its fresh, crisp acidity and vibrant fruit flavours. Winemakers in Imereti are known for their use of modern winemaking techniques, including temperature-controlled fermentation and careful barrel aging. They are increasingly experimenting with Tsolikauri to push its boundaries in search of its true potential. 

One of the notable developments in Imereti is the production of sparkling wines using the traditional method. These sparkling wines have gained recognition both locally and internationally, showcasing Imereti's ability to innovate while honouring its ancient winemaking heritage. Imereti also boasts a unique blend of tradition and modernity. While traditional methods like making wine in amphorae are still honoured, winemakers are also embracing modern techniques such as temperature controlled stainless-steel fermentation to refine their wines.

Sustainability is a growing focus in Imereti. Winemakers are adopting more environmentally friendly practices in their vineyards, recognising the importance of preserving the region's natural beauty for generations to come.

Sviri Appellation

Lies within the Imereti region. There are three permitted varieties; Tsolikouri, Tsitska and Krakhuna, all white varieties, of which the region is known for. All the wines produced here have high acidity levels with a distinct citrus character. 

The Essence of Georgia in Every Glass

As we traverse Georgia's wine regions and witness the evolution of winemaking practices, it becomes evident that Georgian wines are not mere libations; they are profound expressions of a nation's soul. They encapsulate the profound connection between the land, the people, and their traditions.

In the clink of a glass, one can taste the history that stretches back millennia, the dedication of generations of winemakers, and the very essence of a country's identity. Georgia's winemakers have embarked on a remarkable quest: to meet international quality standards while preserving the very heart of their heritage. It's a delicate dance of tradition and innovation, where the past and the present coalesce in every sip.

So, whether you find yourself in the rolling vineyards of Kakheti, the rugged beauty of an emerging wine scene of Kartli, or the hidden gems of Imereti, know that each glass of Georgian wine holds within it the essence of a nation, ready to share its story with the world. It's a story that transcends borders, inviting wine enthusiasts from across the globe to join in the celebration of Georgia's liquid treasures.

Written by

Margot van Lieshout DipWSET FWS RV

Wine marketeer, sales expert with over 20 years in the trade, public speaker and international wine judge. Thousands of wines scored from Steiermark to Ningxia, and a trade she knows from the inside out. Wine with Margot is where she helps wine brands tell the stories that sell them.

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