Are you team Chardonnay like me? Or are you a hater? If you are the latter, that would be an ultimate shame, because this variety has so much to offer. You can even discover a certain style made with Chardonnay that you would like, I promise you. Unfortunately, Chardonnay often equals ‘oak ageing’ with regular consumers and that’s why you might ‘hate’ chardonnay when it is overly oaked, but you can taste a Chardonnay, which keeps you guessing how it is made, did it seen some oak, or did it only saw its own lees for an extensive period of time or was did it see cement tanks or ‘just’ stainless steel tanks. All these different methods result in a unique and different wine, and Chardonnay is just A-W-E-SOME, because she can handle them all and still not disappoint. So, please start exploring Chardonnay!
It's Origin
Chardonnay is an indigenous variety to Bourgogne. Its name is thought to have derived from the Maconnais village of Chardonnay.
Family Ties
It is a natural cross between Pinot x Gouias Blanc.
Climate and Soils
Chardonnay can go two ways; it can be found in the very coolest of regions like Chablis, Germany or England for example, but it can be found also in very warm growing regions like South of France, regions in Australia, South Africa that are not considered to be ‘cool climate’ regions.
Chardonnay is a variety that reflects its terroir perfectly well. When coming from a cooler or warmer climate, the result is directly seen in the harvested fruits and its flavour profile.
It can adapt to almost any soil type, of which chalk (Kimmeridgian marl), clay and (Portlandian) limestone work its magic for the vine. Many top-quality Chardonnay is grown on limestone, clay soils.
- France (50%)
- USA (32%)
- Australia (5%)
- Other (5%)
- Italy (4%)
- New Zealand (2%)
- Argentina (2%)
- Chile (2%), cool coastal areas like Lìmarí
With the ‘other’ category you can find Germany, Switzerland, England, Spain, Portugal and so forth.
Vine Manual: How Does Chardonnay Grow
This variety is suitable to be grown in a wide range of soils and climates, resulting in different styles of wines. With extended hang-time over harvest, chardonnay loses its natural acidity resulting in flat, overblown wines.
- Early budding
- Early ripening
- High yielding, without loss of quality
- Prone to spring frost and coulure both due to being an early ripening variety.
- Prone to Millerandage
- Susceptible to Powdery Mildew and botrytis
- Susceptible to Phytoplasmas (parasites)
- Susceptible to Grapevine yellow.
- Small -medium sized berry clusters, that turn yellowish green after veraison and even may become yellow or brownish green by harvest.
- Highly Vigorous growth, when maintained thinned crops, give the wines a lot of concentration of flavour.
It’s All in the Name Baby.
Beaunois (Bourgogne), Gamay Blanc (Jura), Melon à Queue Rouge (Jura), Melon d’Arbois (Jura), Auvernat (Loire), Morillon, Pinot Chardonnay, Feiner Weisser Burgunder
Tickle Your Taste Buds: Chardonnay Taste Profile
Pale yellow to medium golden colour, depending on the winemaking practices and terroir aspect. Moderate to high acidity, moderate alcohol, medium to full bodied wines, with medium intensity in flavours and aromas. Depending on where the grapes grow, it shows a completely different palate.
Cool climate growing regionCrisp acidity, Green apples (granny smith), citrus e.g. lemon, lime, grapefruit, white blossom, minerality; chalk, wet stones, crushed seashells
Warm climate growing region & Oak AgedStone fruit like peach, mango, apricots, nectarine, also pineapple, papaya, banana, guava. Oak flavours like, vanilla, (cocos), toast, smoke, hazelnuts, sweet spices like, ginger, nutmeg, cloves.
Beyond the Vineyard: Winemaking Techniques and Flavour Profiles
There are more influences of winemaking techniques that impact the taste profile of Chardonnay. Read them below.
Chardonnay on the Lees
Following pressing, winemakers may opt to direct the freshly pressed juice straight into barrels instead of the usual tank transfer, foregoing separation from its gross lees until later. This method, also known as "high solids" fermentation, can enhance the wine's body to make it more smooth, and give it a rounder mouthfeel. But may also influence the emergence of reductive notes. The occurrence of reduction, what the opposite of oxidation is, in Chardonnay this seems to be a matter of debate among winemakers. Some appreciate subtle hints of struck match or rubber, while others deem this to be a flaw. Aging Chardonnay on lees, with periodic stirring, not only adds body but also introduces biscuity and doughy flavours.
Malolactic Fermentation
The decision to undergo a secondary fermentation, known as malolactic fermentation, is a stylistic choice. While some New World winemakers opt to preserve acidity by avoiding malolactic fermentation, it naturally occurs post-primary fermentation, imparting buttery aromas that complement toasty notes from new oak.
Oak Fermentation and Maturation
The use of oak significantly influences the final product. Fermenting and aging Chardonnay in oak barrels imparts aromas of vanilla, smoke, toast, coffee grind and sweet spices like clove, cinnamon, ginger. Oak interaction can accentuate reductive notes while promoting slow oxidation. The percentage of oak, especially new oak, is closely scrutinized by tasters. You hate it or you love it.
Other Styles of Chardonnay Wine
Yes, there is even more! Chardonnay is not limited to still, dry wines; it is also utilised in a diverse array of styles. It features prominently in sparkling wines, particularly Blanc de Blancs styles. Additionally, Chardonnay is used in sweet botrytized and late-harvest wines, although prolonged vine hang-time may reduce acidity, limiting the prevalence of late-harvest Chardonnays.
Did you Know?
In Bourgogne they will prune the Chardonnay vine quite aggressively prior to budburst, all to combat the threat of early spring frost. This way the vine is “shocked to its core” and it will delay its budburst up to two weeks, which often seems long enough to wait for warmer weather to arrive.
Chardonnay was often mistaken for Pinot Blanc (and vice versa) due to its ampelographical similarities. At first glance the vines, leaves and clusters look identical, it is only during ripening, the Chardonnay grapes will take on a more golden-green colour than Pinot Blanc grapes would.
Know Your History
Chardonnay was believed to be planted first in Chablis by non-other than the Cistercians Monks at Pontigny Abbey as early as the 12th century.
Even though we see Chardonnay synonymous to Frances Bourgogne, it has been grown as early as the 1880s in Sonoma County, California, according to viticultural reports, where it was called “pinot chardonnay”.
The “Judgement of Paris” in 1976, changed everything for California Chardonnay, where French wine experts scored Chateau Montelena’s 1973 Chardonnay better than several white Burgundies from its top vineyards.
Clonal Selection: Crafting Diversity in the Vineyard Amongst Chardonnays
Clonal selection plays a pivotal role in defining the character of Chardonnay grapes. While not as emphasised as in its Burgundian counterpart, Pinot Noir, clonal variations are significant, particularly in the New World. In marketing texts and bottle labels, clones are often celebrated for their unique attributes.
For instance, the Mendoza clone is renowned for its diverse berry sizes, contributing both freshness and concentration to the wine. On the other hand, the UCD (University of California-Davis) Clone 15 is distinguished by its pithy aromatic notes and acidity, sometimes known as the Prosser clone in Washington.
In Burgundy, where clonal diversity has evolved through artisanal propagation, classic clones like clone 95 are cherished for imparting lemon and blossom notes. Additionally, muscat-like clones of Chardonnay add aromatic complexity, either as Chardonnay Musqué or as blending components.
Exploring the Tapestry of Clonal Varieties
The University of Burgundy in Dijon stands as a bastion of clonal development, boasting 34 varieties of Chardonnay clones by 2006. These "Dijon clones" are meticulously bred for their adaptive traits, allowing vineyard owners to select clones best suited to their terroir and desired wine characteristics.
Examples abound, from the flavour-concentrated clusters of 'Dijon-76', '95', and '96' to the aromatic wines produced by 'Dijon-77' and '809'. Meanwhile, clones like 'Dijon-75', '78', '121', '124', '125', and '277' offer vigor and higher yields, catering to diverse winemaking needs.
In the New World, clones like the 'Mendoza' have left their mark, particularly in early California Chardonnays, albeit with susceptibility to millerandage, or uneven berry development. Oregon's Willamette Valley, akin to Burgundy's climate, has seen success with newer Dijon clones, showcasing the adaptability and versatility of Chardonnay.
From the meticulous selection of clones in the vineyard to the artful application of winemaking techniques. Chardonnay is adaptable to all kinds of climates and soil types. As we raise our glasses to this versatile grape, let us savour the diversity of flavours and aromas that make Chardonnay a perennial favorite among wine enthusiasts worldwide.
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Why does Chardonnay taste so different from bottle to bottle?
Because Chardonnay is the great chameleon: it reflects both its terroir and its maker. Cool climates give crisp green apple, citrus and stony minerality, warm climates bring peach, mango and pineapple, and cellar choices like oak, lees ageing or malolactic fermentation layer on everything from butter to toast.
Where does Chardonnay originally come from?
Chardonnay is native to Bourgogne, a natural cross of Pinot and Gouais Blanc, most likely named after the Mâconnais village of Chardonnay. Cistercian monks at Pontigny Abbey are believed to have planted it in Chablis as early as the 12th century.
What is malolactic fermentation in Chardonnay?
It is a secondary fermentation that softens the wine and brings the famous buttery aromas that pair with toasty new oak. It is a stylistic choice: many New World producers deliberately block it to keep the acidity fresh.
Is Chardonnay always oaked?
Not at all. Chardonnay is raised in stainless steel, cement, on its lees or in oak, and each route makes a different wine. Oak brings vanilla, smoke, toast and sweet spice; unoaked styles keep the fruit and minerality up front, which is exactly why writing off all Chardonnay after one oaky glass is a shame.
What was the Judgement of Paris?
The 1976 blind tasting where French experts scored Chateau Montelena's 1973 California Chardonnay above several top white Burgundies. It changed the standing of California Chardonnay, which had already grown in Sonoma since the 1880s under the name pinot chardonnay, overnight.
Resources
- Jancis Robinson, “Chardonnay” - Accessed on March 3, 2024
- London Wine Competition, “How the Worlds Top 10 Grape Varieties Dominate Sales of Wine”, - Accessed on March 3, 2024
- Wine Searcher, “Chardonnay” - Accessed on March 3, 2024
- Small Winemakers, “Chardonnay Wine History”, - Accessed on March 3, 2024
- Sonoma County, “History of Chardonnay”, - Accessed on March 3, 2024
Margot van Lieshout
Wine marketeer, sales expert with over 20 years in the trade, public speaker and international wine judge. Thousands of wines scored from Steiermark to Ningxia, and a trade she knows from the inside out. Wine with Margot is where she helps wine brands tell the stories that sell them.
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