Beyond Bordeaux: How Yinchuan Is Defining China's Own Wine Identity

From bold reds to boutique innovation, China's wine scene is evolving fast. Here's what I found at the heart of its transformation.

On our first day in Yinchuan, China, and after the opening ceremony held at the Ningxia Grand Theatre, we headed straight to the Expo of Wine at the Yinchuan International Convention Centre.

In this article, I'll share my findings on the Chinese wine market based on my brief visit to the Expo of Wine. What you'll read is mostly my commercial take, covering differences in wine styles, China's local taste preferences, their import and export market, and where things stand in 2025. I also did a bit of online digging to give you some actual numbers.

Want to read more about my other adventures in Ningxia? Then check out my article: "The Rise of Ningxia, Winemaking at the Edge of the Gobi Desert."

My Brief Visit to the Expo of Wine

If you've ever been to ProWein or Wine Paris, forget the comparison. The Yinchuan International Convention Centre is in a league of its own. It's massive. Just walking around the exterior takes 10 to 15 minutes, and the inside? Same scale. This is where the annual Expo of Wine is held: grand, polished, and increasingly international. Yes, there were some European names present, but we weren't there for that. We came to taste China.

After a bit of scouting, my tasting companion and I zeroed in on the smaller wineries, the ones not built for 70 million euro with faux châteaux and marble columns. We were looking for boutique producers. The ones quietly making wines with identity, not just infrastructure.

We were on the lookout for Chinese wines that felt like they came from China, not just modern-looking labels with a bit of Mandarin, but bottles that carried a cultural vibe. Something you'd hold and think, yes, this is different: this is distinctly Chinese. With a commercial eye, I'm not just tasting what's in the glass, I'm judging the whole experience. If I buy a Chinese wine, I want the label to reflect that too. Not just Mandarin text on a slick design, but something that says: "This is made in China, and proudly so."

What the Label Really Tells You

That's what I kept asking myself as we tasted. Does the look of the bottle actually tell you anything about the wine inside, or is it all just show?

Some labels screamed "export-ready": clean, modern, maybe a touch too clinical. Others had a distinctly Chinese feel: bold, ornate, unapologetically local. And honestly, if I'm drinking Chinese wine, I want the full experience. The label matters. It should reflect the origin, not bury it under Western minimalism with a dash of Mandarin text.

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1. Devo MV03 Brut Nature from Helan Mountain East, 89/100.
2. A minimalist 2021 red from the Yili River Valley, 85/100.
3. The red-dot Marselan 2021: bred in France in 1961, adopted by China as its own, 87/100.
4. Xige Estate's "18" white from Helan Mountain East, 89/100.
5. Star Children: night-sky folk art on a natural-style white, 89/100.
6. The folk-art dragon label, heritage painting wrapped around the bottle, 90/100.
7. Mutong "Shepherd" Shiraz 2022 from Helan Mountain, 91/100.
8. Lansai Marselan: an ink-drawn dragon and blossoms in blue, 90/100.

And it's not just the label. The bottle itself sends a signal. Many wineries still use very heavy glass, because weight is still equated with quality in the local market, it's still part of the prestige play. But interestingly, I also saw wines in cans and alternative packaging aimed at younger, more casual drinkers. So, while some are sticking to glass as a status cue, others are already breaking the mould and targeting a completely different drinking occasion.

Now let's talk price.

In Europe, a bottle of Chinese wine will easily set you back 20 to 60 euro, with 20 euro already being considered "cheap." But don't confuse that with low quality. At the same time, I've tasted 80 euro wines loaded with VA (volatile acidity, think nail polish remover), thin on the palate, with very little to say.

In China, price doesn't tell the whole story. Reputation does. If you don't know the producer, you're gambling.

Different Styles of Chinese Wine

When we asked local trade visitors about the differences between wineries, the answer was clear: the old guard still leans Bordeaux. We're talking big, concentrated reds (Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, even Marselan) built for age and structure (and yes, some with a good dose of VA, if you ask my nose). These are wines with muscle and pedigree, made in a style that hasn't changed much since the 1980s.

But there's a shift happening.

A new generation of winemakers is carving out a different path: lighter styles, fresher expressions, more experimentation. They're blending heritage with creativity. I tasted a Blanc de Noir made from Malbec (yes, Malbec), and several producers were pouring Pet-Nats, natural wines, and varietals that would've been unthinkable in China a decade ago.

This new wave is speaking to a younger generation of drinkers: people who don't want Bordeaux in a Chinese bottle, but something more personal, more playful, and more now.

Honestly, I could've spent the entire expo just exploring the smaller, boutique producers, my sweet spot. If anything, this visit just whet my appetite. I'll be back in Yinchuan again, and next time, I'm going in deep.

China's Wine Consumption Preferences

Maybe you've already guessed it, since Bordeaux styled wines are the wines they started to make in the first place. But the Chinese do like heavy tannic red wines. And why do I say that? With every Chinese taster I tasted with over the course of this week, they were fine with the heavy, drying tannins, where I have difficulty biting through the tannins in the first place. For them the wines are just as they prefer. (Mind you, I am not saying this counts for every Chinese person who drinks red wine, only for those I have tasted with.)

It was hard to come by a (good) Chinese white wine though. I adore a good glass of white, especially when it's hot outside, but they were hard to find. Here are some factual numbers I found on China Briefing.

"In China, red wine maintains its dominant position among consumers, despite increasing interest in diverse wine varieties. Cabernet Sauvignon emerges as the clear favourite. This preference for red wine is driven by its perceived health benefits and deep cultural significance, firmly establishing it as the preferred choice among Chinese wine enthusiasts. Meanwhile rosé wine holds a smaller yet noteworthy market share of 3.5 percent, while other wine types collectively capture 2.3 percent. These figures underscore the enduring popularity of red wine relative to its counterparts, highlighting its entrenched status in the preferences of Chinese wine consumers." That's China Briefing.

• Nearly 95% of total wine consumption in China is red wine, made from Bordeaux varieties that hold a higher status among Chinese consumers.
• White, rosé and sparkling wine are low compared to red wine consumption. Fortified wines are not as popular as any other wine category here.

But needless to say, since the wine drinking generation in China is changing, the white wine category is the fastest growing wine segment now. So, plenty of reason for new winemakers to start investing in some extra ground for white grape varieties. The main white variety planted now is Chardonnay.

China's Signature on Marselan

The CMB even has a dedicated competition set up for judging wines solely on Marselan. And China is proud of "their Marselan"; they consider it their signature variety. Marselan thrives in various Chinese wine regions, producing wines that are well received by both domestic and international markets. Its adaptability to different climates and soils, combined with its relatively high yields and good quality, makes it a promising grape for the Chinese wine industry. World Marselan Day is well celebrated in China, often featuring tastings and events, which further highlights the grape's popularity and importance. Marselan wines from China are being well perceived worldwide.

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1. The Concours Mondial de Bruxelles Marselan display at the Expo: a world map of entries beside the award wall. CMB was founded in Belgium in 1994 and its Marselan session is a rare single-grape competition.
2. Award-winning Chinese Marselan wines from previous CMB editions, lined up on the illuminated wall.

At the Expo there was a CMB stand dedicated to showcasing some of the award-winning Marselan wines from previous years. I tasted several (some of them shown on the earlier image with all the wine labels).

Want to read more on my take on China's Marselan? You can read my article "Why Marselan Might Be China's Most Promising Red Grape."

Now let's dive into China's wine market and what's happening on the global stage: how are imports and exports evolving?

China's Wine Market in 2025: A Shifting Giant with Global Intent

I was genuinely surprised by this: France is currently China's largest European export market for wine. Yes, France. I do not kid you. Sure, it makes sense that the Chinese drink a lot of Bordeaux. But the reverse? The French drinking Chinese wine? That caught me off guard. And yet, it's happening, and not just in theory. At the fair, I even heard Switzerland is emerging as a small but premium export market. Money talks.

What does this tell us? That China isn't just making wine for itself anymore, it's finding new, often surprising audiences abroad. This isn't niche curiosity; it's commercial movement.

That's the macro view: rising exports, shifting imports, and a clear national ambition to step onto the global wine stage. But what about what's happening inside the glass, on the ground, and in the minds of today's Chinese wine drinkers? Let's zoom in.

China's wine market isn't standing still. It's not in free fall, but it is recalibrating. While wine imports are declining, exports are quietly surging, especially to culturally linked or high-end niche markets. That tells us something critical: China no longer sees itself purely as a wine consumer, it wants to be a producer, exporter, and storyteller on the world stage.

Exports Are Gaining Serious Ground

According to OEC, in 2024 China exported 29.1 million dollars worth of wine, with the fastest growth in niche and prestige-driven markets.

Top destinations by export value (2024):

• Hong Kong: 19.4M dollars (66.7% of total exports)
• France: 1.9M dollars (6.5%)
• Macau: 1.16M dollars (4%)

Takeaway: China's wine exports are still small in global terms, but they're growing fast, especially in territories with cultural proximity, curiosity for Chinese products, or niche positioning power (France and Switzerland in particular).

Imports Are Contracting

In the same year, China imported 1.52 billion dollars worth of wine, still massive, but the trend is downward.

Top countries of origin for wine imports (2024):

• Australia: 580M dollars
• France: 401M dollars
• Chile: 161M dollars

Takeaway: as China's domestic production gains confidence, imported wines are feeling the pressure. Bordeaux's dominance is waning. Brands relying solely on prestige without adapting to local dynamics are being left behind.

2025: Chinese Wine Exports Nearly Doubled

The full-year figures make the trend impossible to miss. China's wine exports jumped from 29.1 million dollars in 2024 to 57.8 million dollars in 2025, close to double in a single year, while imports slipped further to 1.42 billion dollars. The seller side is growing while the buyer side keeps contracting.

Top destinations by export value (2025):

• Hong Kong: 42.4M dollars (73.4%), the single fastest-growing market, up 19.3M dollars year on year
• Singapore: 3.61M dollars (6.2%)
• France: 2.07M dollars (3.6%)
• Macau: 2.07M dollars (3.6%)
• North Korea: 2.01M dollars (3.5%)

And these aren't just flukes. They reflect growing international interest in Chinese wine, especially in markets that value boutique, origin-specific products.

What This Signals for the Industry

• China is investing in exports, not just in volume, but in perception.
• Importers and distributors need to adjust expectations: China is no longer just a buyer of Bordeaux or Barossa, it's increasingly a seller.
• Wine brands should treat China as a dual-market opportunity: one to sell into, and increasingly, one to source distinctive wines from.

Current Industry Trends in China's Wine Market

Let's step off the trade floor for a moment into China's wine culture. Because the real action in China's wine scene isn't just happening in export figures, it's happening in how people are drinking wine, what they're choosing, and why.

From health-driven millennials to curious domestic tourists, Chinese consumers are rewriting the wine playbook. And no, it's not just a copy-paste of Western trends (anymore).

It's All About the Experience

Chinese consumers often respond strongly to products tied to specific occasions. Mulled wine's popularity during the winter festive season shows how aligning wine with seasonal or cultural moments, especially those that are easy to personalise and share on social media, can drive engagement and brand recognition.

Like the wine festival held in the old city center of Yinchuan. Unfortunately, it wasn't open while we were there, but there was a whole street dedicated to it, lined with wine and food. Lights and slogans everywhere: "I want wine", "I love wine", "Yinchuan loves Wine", and statues dedicated to wine, like the giant wooden red-wine glass on the site.

"Fit Girl Routine": Health-Conscious, Low-Alcohol, and Female-Oriented Wine Beverages

Yes, I said "female-oriented wine beverages." Health remains a key purchase driver, with growing interest in low-alcohol, alcohol-free, and "healthier" wine options. These trends are particularly relevant for younger and female consumers, who increasingly seek wine products that align with wellness and lifestyle preferences.

Demand for Novelty and Differentiation

Chinese wine consumers are increasingly drawn to distinctive and lesser-known wine styles, such as orange and natural wines. Novel flavours, distinct winemaking methods, and niche grape varieties meet a rising demand for individuality and product differentiation.

Wine Tourism and Cultural Experience

Post-pandemic, domestic travel in China has surged, and wine tourism is benefiting. As consumers look for culturally rich and gastronomic experiences, both domestic and international wineries that are well prepared to engage Chinese tourists can gain exposure, build brand loyalty, and spark word-of-mouth marketing.

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1. The visitor tasting room at Chandon's Ningxia winery, Moet Hennessy's first winery in China, opened in 2013.
2. A glass of traditional-method sparkling at Chandon.
3. Manpu Town in Xixia District: not a winery but a wine-tourism destination with venues, restaurants, tastings, hot springs and art spaces at the foot of the Helan Mountains.
4. Helanghong Winery set for a grand events dinner with live entertainment and circus acts.
5. The corkscrew stairs inside Chateau Dulaan, Helan County.

Clearly, wine in China is no longer just about prestige, it's becoming personal. That shift in consumer mindset is being matched by an even bigger shift in production. And that was on full display in Yinchuan. They're actively shaping a new wine culture, one driven by personal identity, health choices, digital influence, and lifestyle alignment.

Which brings us to the producers. Because it's not just the drinkers who are evolving, the winemakers are moving too. And that shift? It was front and center in Yinchuan.

Inside the Shift: What China's Wine Scene Is Telling Us

Standing on the floor of the Expo in Yinchuan, it hit me: this wasn't just a trade show, it was a preview of where China's wine scene is headed.

Behind the flashy displays and generous pours, you could feel a deeper shift. The producers here weren't just chasing prestige; they were building identity.

From the glass to the label to the message behind it, the new generation of Chinese wineries is starting to show what they really stand for. And it's not about looking like Europe, it's about looking like themselves.

What it all comes down to is this: China's wine scene isn't in an imitation phase anymore; it's in an identity phase. For anyone in the wine trade, the question isn't whether to pay attention, it's how fast you can catch up. So, let's break it down. What does this all mean for brands trying to sell to China, or compete with it?

Let's talk strategy.

6 Key Commercial Takeaways for Wine Brands in China

Based on what I saw, tasted, and heard on the ground in Yinchuan, these are the commercial takeaways I believe matter most. What does all this mean for wine brands, importers, and marketers trying to navigate the Chinese market, or compete with it? Here are my six key commercial takeaways that stood out from Yinchuan, and why they matter.

1. Stop Trying to Sell Prestige: Sell Relevance

The old approach to China was all about status wines: Bordeaux blends, heavy bottles, faux château packaging, and big tannins. But the younger generation of Chinese wine drinkers is no longer impressed by imported labels alone. They want wine that fits their moment, not just their status.

So for brands, the move is to localise by occasion, not just origin. Think light whites for hot nights, Pet-Nats for party culture, and storytelling-driven wines for gifting.

2. Design Matters, But Cultural Authenticity Matters More

I saw it repeatedly: Chinese wines trying to look "international" with sleek labels in English or generic modern packaging. But the most interesting, conversation-starting wines were the ones that leaned into their cultural identity, whether that was label art, grape choices, or even naming.

On packaging, don't dilute the origin story, amplify it. Visual storytelling that connects to local heritage, symbolism, or artistry doesn't alienate, it differentiates. Western consumers buying Chinese wine aren't looking for copycat Napa; they want China in a bottle.

3. Marselan Is China's Signature, Whether the Market Knows It or Not

You can feel it on the ground: China is claiming Marselan as its own. It thrives across multiple regions, performs well in both domestic and international tastings, and has even earned its own competition category with CMB. It's not just a grape, it's a message: China can do distinctive, high-quality wine on its own terms.

At the Expo, there was a dedicated stand featuring award-winning Marselan wines, and what I tasted backed up the hype. The style is evolving structured yet accessible, expressive without mimicking the old Bordeaux blueprint.

What brands should do: if you're looking to introduce consumers to Chinese wine, start with Marselan. It's a signature varietal with a strong quality story, growing recognition, and a clear point of differentiation.

And for domestic producers? Commit. Marselan isn't just working, it's winning. Now's the time to promote it from grape to flagship.

4. Price Does Not Equal Quality. Trust Is Not Built Overnight.

There's a serious dissonance between price and product quality in Chinese wine right now. I tasted 20 euro wines that outperformed 80 euro bottles. But the average consumer, or even professional, has no roadmap for navigating that.

Commercially, wineries and importers need to build trust bridges: clear tiering, origin stories, winery background, third-party validation (CMB medals help), and transparency around winemaking. The "luxury by price tag" model doesn't cut it anymore.

5. Wine Tourism Is China's Untapped Brand Machine

I saw glimpses of it: the Chandon cellars, the wine-themed festival street in Yinchuan. But most Chinese wine regions aren't yet tapping the massive opportunity of experience-first wine branding. Post-COVID, Chinese consumers are travelling domestically and looking for culture, cuisine, and content. This is a moment.

For wineries, build your DTC muscle. Invest in visitor experiences. Get your story photo ready. You don't need a vineyard in Provence, you need the right selfie spot, a good glass, and a cultural hook.

6. China's Wines Are Ready. The Global Market Isn't.

French wine lovers are drinking Chinese wines. North Korea, Switzerland, and even the U.S. are importing them. But most global consumers still see Chinese wine as a curiosity, not a category.

For exporters and importers, position Chinese wine not as the "next Bordeaux" but as a new voice in the global wine conversation. Start with Marselan. Lead with story. Sell the evolution, not the imitation.

Final Thought

China isn't just drinking wine anymore, it's producing it with purpose, shaping its own narrative, and stepping onto the global stage with a clear identity.

For brands watching from the sidelines, the message is clear: adapt, localise, or be ignored. The future belongs to those who don't just sell wine in China, but understand what wine means in China.

What Yinchuan Really Told Me

Visiting the Expo of Wine in Yinchuan wasn't just a tasting trip, it was a strategic eye-opener. China's wine industry isn't emerging anymore. It's evolving, with confidence, complexity, and its own commercial DNA.

Yes, you'll still find heavy reds shaped by Bordeaux's shadow. But alongside them? Lighter, fresher, more experimental wines designed for a younger, more curious generation.

This market isn't about prestige-for-import's-sake anymore. It's about relevance, resonance, and real storytelling: visually, culturally, and on the palate.

The challenge for wine professionals is this: can you read China's cues? Can you sell to it, partner with it, or even learn from it? Because this isn't a novelty market, it's a future market.

And thanks to the team at Concours Mondial de Bruxelles, I had a front-row seat to that future. Not just in the glasses I tasted, but in the stories, strategies, and ambition behind them.

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Written by

Margot van Lieshout DipWSET FWS RV

Wine marketeer, sales expert with over 20 years in the trade, public speaker and international wine judge. Thousands of wines scored from Steiermark to Ningxia, and a trade she knows from the inside out. Wine with Margot is where she helps wine brands tell the stories that sell them.

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